Each installation will be different. Burners should be fairly firmly mounted, especially those which have white ceramic heads which are fairly fragile and should be mounted with a half inch space between the head and the burner port. My choice of mounts, used on both my furnace and glory hole, is to hang the burner below a support bar that can be shifted for correct lineup but which is unlikely to shift in normal use.
I have a rectangular frame fastened to the equipment which supports the door, etc. In the picture the frame has the round gloryhole under it and flat steel plates on top to the right. The square tubing just in front of the plates is bolted at the far end and can slide on the nearer rail. A simple flat of steel takes a bolt into the tubing at the top and into the burner at the bottom. The burner is threaded. Originally, I planned on mounting on the pipe, tapping a hole there but the balance was off creating awkward movement so I filled it with a short bolt visible on top and moved more directly above blower. I had to remount the tubing further out. 2005-01-28
Note the gauge at the left edge of the picture. This measures the back pressure on the orifice as the control valve below it opened. The pipe T below the gauge replaces the elbow in upper pictures. Originally, the gauge was mounted on a quick release stem, but I was reminded how little the gauges cost ($4-7) which is less than the quick release male and female, so just put gauges in place. The amount of gas flowing depends on the orifice size and the pressure andWHETHER THE ORIFICE IS CLEAN!! I reduced the size of the orifice to give me more control by braising over the nipple and re-drilling. On several occasions, I have found the pressure up and the gas flow down (the gloryhole not hot enough.) Disconnecting one of the copper flare fittings allowed me to unscrew the large iron adaptor and clean the orifice with a welding orifice cleaning tool while the glory hole was hot. Pressure dropped but there was more gas flow through cleared orifice. 2005-03-31
Kits vary, but a natural gas conversion kit typically includes all of the necessary parts to perform the conversion, including: a flexible gas hose, gas jets, quick-disconnect valve fittings, a hose wrench, a jet wrench, valve limiters and an orifice cleaning tool. Check with the manufacturer for a conversion kit that is compatible with the grill's model.
Consult your grill manufacturer on how to remove your control knobs and gas orifices. Use an orifice cleaning tool or a small piece of wire to clean any debris or spider webs blocking the orifice and stopping the gas from reaching the burners. Often, these areas are blocked by dust, debris and small insects who like to call the orifices home. By cleaning out the orifices, more gas can reach your burners to increase the flame size.